They say first impressions count. And so it is at Est., where the sheen of the magnificent dining room and highly tuned service lure you over the threshold from the clamour of George Street to what promises to be a bubble of dining bliss. The soaring columns, decorative pressed-metal ceiling and flickering chandeliers of this all-white heritage-listed dining room work in harmony to evoke an effortless grandeur that is sumptuous without being showy or oppressive. A voice at a neighbouring table remarks: “I’d forgotten how beautiful this room is!”. 

Before menus hit the table, the arrival of the Champagne trolley is a sign of good times ahead. The decision between a lightly toasty Ruinart blanc de blancs, Veuve Cliquot 2006 sparkling rosé and vintage Dom P is aided by the ‘driver’ who lists the texture and flavour notes of each bottle as if describing a group of good pals. However, as the trolley rolls out of sight, with it goes the high of that glorious first impression.

Overall, dishes lack the lustre of the surrounds. Seriously under-sized, under-salted and under-delicious, the three-course tasting menu is a slippery descent from the summit of our arrival. A starter of heirloom tomato with straciatella and prawn oil is missing the sweet burst of in-season tomatoes, the hope of the soft Italian buffalo cheese dashed via a puddle of white liquid in the bottom of the bowl. Marron with laver (a type of dried seaweed), verjus and sesame oil tastes of none of the above, while baby snapper with buckwheat, pearlmeat and yuzu kosho butter needs more salt and more yuzu. Perhaps there’s redemption in the wagyu fat potatoes ordered to bolster a paltry main of lamb loin with heirloom zucchini (one slice) and caper leaves? Artfully stacked like a block of Jenga tiles, the rectangular slabs of potato are disappointingly reminiscent of the mushy centred frozen potato gems of childhood. 

Given a table of two can expect to pay around $300 for three (tiny) courses and a couple of sides – and that’s without snacks, drinks or tip – does the magnificence of that magnificent room make up for the lacklustre food? No.

Must Eat Dish: Freshly shucked rock oysters with white miso and chive oil vinaigrette.