The tourists adjacent are eating their wattleseed damper with cutlery, but don’t mind them. Est. is one of the CBD’s most reliably sophisticated eateries, a bastion of fine-dining, first-rate service and precision cooking.

Acclaimed chef Peter Doyle oversees the menu, a controlled interplay of modern Australian fare, classic French technique and Asian flavours. Emblematic of that approach is a starter of Moreton Bay bug tail with beetroot, nasturtium and cumquat. It’s pretty enough to recall a Cy Twombly painting, and tasty enough to be polished off rapidly.

Another standout is steamed Murray cod in a delicate broth with shaved abalone, snow peas and black fungi. Somehow it manages to taste both virtuous and decadent. Noteworthy meat offerings include paper-thin, richly marbled wagyu with Tuscan kale and caper leaves, and Rangers Valley flank steak with black rice, pickled onion and fermented cukes. All the cloche-topped plates are presented with exquisite timing by the waitstaff, and you could spend multiple visits poring over the extensive wine list here.

Est. is not inexpensive, it’s a special occasion restaurant that has been been spoiling patrons for close to two decades. The environs are suitably luxe, with dramatic columns, glinting chandeliers and white tablecloths as far as the eye can see. Diners can choose from two, three, four courses or the tasting menu.

Whatever you decide, order the passionfruit soufflé for dessert. It’s a fittingly dramatic finale to a meal here. Yet, just when you think it’s over, the waiter delivers a plate of petit fours, blood orange jellies and chocolate Madeleines, and you happily nibble at those too.

Must eat dish: Steamed Murray cod and passionfruit souffle
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