While little sister venue ESP next door has a way of stealing the limelight, Estelle Bistro remains quietly charming. Scott Pickett’s northside diner is eminently approachable for any occasion, whether it be for an after-work catch up over Clair de Lune oysters and a Brooklyn Lager, or a full-blown five course ‘Chef’s Menu’ with matching wines.

However you decide to approach Estelle Bistro, make sure it involves Pickett’s ‘snacks’. His boudin noir croquettes with pea puree, and goat’s cheese churros with truffle honey are diminutive in size but big on flavour.

Visiting in early spring, we loved a delicate Estelle entree that interlaced spanner crab with finger lime and ‘sea vegetables’, but Pickett’s chefs also have a way with meat, bedding pink slabs of sirloin down on celeriac, and sinking lamb shoulder into a medley of peas, lardons and cos.

Flavours really sing here and dessert delivers a crescendo. A frothy mandarin sponge is zingy with the sweet citrus, while botrytis-soaked fruit lend dark Christmas pudding notes to a luxurious chocolate pave.

Northcote has gone from being the next big thing to the big thing and we thank Scott Pickett and Estelle Bistro for driving that change.

Must have dish: Chocolate pave
Instagram: @estellebistro