Whether it’s the sublime little bites to begin (jerusalem artichoke crisp, potato souffle filled with roe), or the pitch-perfect petit fours to end (blackberry vinegar ganache, lemon aspen doughnut), or any one of the seven courses in between, you know you’re in very good hands here at Estelle by Scott Pickett. The chef whose name’s on the door is here fulfilling his vision of what fine dining in Melbourne looks like today. And if the dark, moody and deeply sexy room gives anything away, it’s that it looks every bit the goods on the world stage.

Located next door to his more accessible bistro in quietly gentrifying Northcote, ESP makes as much theatre of the passing streetscape as it does the central open kitchen where duos take ringside seating for Pickett’s procession of plates informed with one eye on today (native ingredients, modern plating) the other on yesterday (Euro-centric style, impeccable technique).

This is a degustation-only affair, where the Lagouile cutlery comes embossed with a signature E, where the dark American oak tables are set with dramatic show plates, but where bread comes in the form of a cheesy bacon scroll and where there’s old-school hip hop on the stereo. It’s serious dining, sure, but it’s not po-faced.

The food is uniformly accomplished, highlighting influences and lessons learnt over a career that already spans 25 years. It could be the hand-rolled macaroni, served here with a piece of sublime veal and sweetbreads, or the lemon curd that ties together a piece of kingfish and calamari, or the dry-ice “soil” that’s served with the final dish, a Daintree chocolate and violet dessert that’s a surprisingly delicate textural triumph.

There’s a boldness to the direction – a metal skewer threaded with heart and liver served with a perfect piece of venison – that’s to be applauded, as is service that’s sharp and intuitive and which extends to a wine list created with subtle style.

ESP is a bold statement by a chef who’s one of our best. And his signature restaurant is now, too.

Social feed