An elegant but fun jazz playlist set the tone as the Wentworth Courier was seated at et al, an intimate 40-seat eatery offering a more casual experience than its previous incarnation as Impromptu Dining.

A flamboyant writer penning their latest novel would have looked right at home sitting in the outdoor courtyard while sipping a glass of vino.

The retro-chic decor has a Parisian cafe culture quality, with the buzzing laneway setting creating endless people-watching opportunities.

White and forest green colour tones collide with contrasting chevron flooring to give the place a summery, funky and lively feel.

Et. Al is the work of classically trained chef Daniel Backhouse (Bathers Pavilion, Berowra Waters Inn) and seasoned manager Stephen Craig, who spent 10 years at the helm of Colin Fassnidge’s Four in Hand Dining Room in Paddington.

Craig’s service style is thoughtful and efficient but not overbearing.

The bistro-style menu features classic, nostalgic dishes with a modern, fun spin.

The salmon ($16), which had been cured overnight in salt, grapefruit zest and vodka, encapsulated summer in a dish.

It was served with a zesty mix of avocado, shaved fennel, grapefruit and sesame seeds.

Despite not being a fan of zucchini, I loved the burrata ($15), served with shaved zucchini, tempura flowers and hazelnuts. It’s an inventive dish without being over the top, arranged around the perfectly creamy cheese.

The divinely fresh and fragrant Cone Bay barramundi ($28) was pan roasted and served with roasted eggplant, confit cherry tomatoes and dressed with basil pesto.

The crispy potatoes ($8) were — hand over heart — the best potatoes the Courier had ever tasted.

The are parboiled, then smashed and fried before being smothered in house-smoked maple syrup.

Craig has crafted a short, sharp and worldly wine list that cements this venue as the perfect place to while away a warm afternoon among friends.

The 2015 Etienne Boileau petit chablis, from Burgundy, was just what we needed to wind down after a long day at the office.

Crisp, light and fresh, it complemented the balmy weather and lighthearted feel of the place.

Like the wine list, the food menu is not extensive — allowing Backhouse to nail each dish — but with enough variety to suit every taste.

And the dishes are designed so they can be shared — or not.

The food at Et Al is fine dining quality without the pretentiousness or hefty price tag.

It’s just as perfect for a date night as it is for a dinner out with friends.