Summer in France is a little like spring in Sydney. Not as hot as you’d expect, but pleasant with a sunny disposition – a little like Été (French for summer), the latest restaurant to join the smorgasbord at Barangaroo. A swag of French restaurants and French-inspired dishes have hit sin city over the past few years, but, surprisingly, Été is the first in this growing precinct.

There’s an almost too casual, café feel to the fitout, and although a changing seasonal wall installation by stylists George and Smee, pale timber communal tables, cane-back chairs, white walls and a few red banquettes give it a real Provençale panache, it still feels a little bare.

Service is friendly and capable, though it could be more confident – apologising for not knowing the menu is never a good idea. Nevertheless, the wine list offers a tempting tour of France and Australia, perfectly suited to the French-accented fare. Chef-owner Drew Bolton (ex-Vine, Double Bay), with chef de cuisine Michael Flood (ex-Firedoor) explores seasonal produce, even pinpointing it on a map of NSW. They’ve taken the bones of the classics and got creative, though not all dishes benefit.

Yuzu kosho adds zing to a velvety, vermouth emulsion that plays nicely with grilled North Queensland King prawns. They’re fabulous. Although mini onion rings (beignets) are nice atop steak tartare, overpowering powdered seaweed is a disappointing distraction. Beautifully cooked whole sand whiting offers perfectly pearlescent flesh and comes decorated with gaufrette potato chips that look like thin waffles, beurre blanc and sea succulents. An ensemble of fig, fennel and orange works with pink duck breast and confit leg pastry (croustillant). Then, baked-to-order pistachio madeleine is so delightful it needn’t be served with whipped ricotta.

As winter looms large, why not visit Été for a taste of the Euro summer.