Nothing is forever. While some things sure feel it, others are fleeting and trigger a fear of missing out. Ételek, a pop-up showcasing contemporary Eastern European, Mediterranean and Jewish cuisines, is something you do not want to let slip by. In fact, you need to book a table there before the lights go out on at the end of the year, then you’ll want to keep an ear to the ground – they’re searching for more permanent digs.

Ételek, the Hungarian word for food, is the very honest and inspiring work of chef Adam Wolfers (formerly of Yellow and Monopole) and front-of-houser Marc Dempsey (Yellow, Cornersmith) that began life with a stint at Casoni, followed by a brief takeover of the late Bar Brosé. This time round it’s housed in the former Antipodean and Gastro Park site.

The pointy space delivers an outlook onto Kings Cross wildlife via floor-to ceiling windows, while inside it’s largely unchanged except for the installation of bright hanging fabric.

The true brightness, however, shines on the plate. The ‘everything bagel’ – a mouthful of light bagel crust encasing buttermilk cream cheese, horseradish and dill – will tempt you to order a bowlful, but that might deny you the pleasures of lángos, Hungarian deep-fried dough, a disc of light, steaming hot joy to swipe through the cultured cream.

Labne and hot sauce, meanwhile, partner parsnip schnitzel that could take on any parma in town. Skewers of cabbage and guanciale make for a build-your-own-souvlaki moment with fried malawach flatbread, while nokedli – dumpling-like egg noodles – are deliciously enriched with egg yolk, sea urchin and walnut. It’s damn good.

The service is sharp, knowledgeable, and fun, and the wine list is an accessible masterclass in what you should be drinking in Australia right now. There’s no time to waste. You know what to do.