Fun, cheeky and lively, Etsu Izakaya has become a Gold Coast hotspot.

The quirky, playful fit-out – complete with curved wall reminiscent of a skate ramp, colourful artwork and neon signs, plus live music on weekends – ensures it always feels like a party.

Joining the jollity is new head chef Nooei Wongchaaum (ex-Toko, Melbourne). While much of the menu remains the same, Wongchaaum has put his spin on it, increasing the offerings cooked on the robata grill and introducing what is sure to become an Etsu favourite – pork ribs. The pig glides off the bone, sticky with a nuanced Japanese barbecue sauce – sensational!

The informed, professional waitstaff thoughtfully provide hand wipes for removing any mess, as well as help to guide diners through a host of options.

Starting with the chef’s choice of sashimi is always recommended, with seven fresh pieces of kingfish, salmon and melting tuna on our visit.

Alternatively, try the standout, almost-meaty tuna maguro – an inside-out sushi roll packed with diced raw tuna and avocado, and crowned by a sliver of just-seared fish in a puddle of dry miso and sesame yuzu.

Nuggets of ethereally light tempura Moreton Bay bug huddling in a sweetsour amazu sauce are a must, as is the nasu dengaku eggplant – served halved, its yielding flesh scored, slippery and saccharine with a miso glaze.

A baked edamame cheesecake tastes as interesting as it sounds – walking a thin line between sweet and savoury, before a scoop of strawberry sorbet firmly pushes it into dessert territory.

The drinks list offers a saké to suit all dishes, alongside cleverly selected wines and Japanese whiskies. While the chef brings fresh flavours to Etsu, the whole package will keep diners returning.