Screened from the Gold Coast Hwy by a sliding barn door, with its only identifying marker, a single red lantern hung outside at 5pm each night, Etsu Izakaya is for those in the know.

Inside is a dark, moody den of fun and frivolity, with a fit-out boasting what looks like a skate ramp up the ceiling, a tree extruding from the centre of a table, neon signs lighting walls and colourful murals.

It’s the type of venue you come for a drink with friends and find yourself deep into the Japanese-inspired beverage list, which runs from old and new world wines and imported Japanese beers, to sake, shochu, umeshu, plum wines, whiskies and cool cocktails that use them all.

The food offering is just as diverse, including sushi, agemono, salads, bigger bits, and a premium meat selection.

Let the chef make the decisions for you and go one of two omakase menus, or choose your own adventure, starting with the hamachi carpaccio — thin slices of kingfish zingy and zesty with a yuzu soy dressing and jalapeño.

Skip the sushi and tempura section in favour of sashimi and classics like the nasu dengaku and signature Wagyu 9+ marble score beef served on a steaming hot stone.