Named after a woman who promoted safe-sex during World War One and opened a brothel in Sydney, Ettie’s has all the features of a modern lady. She’s smart, cheeky, refined and confident – and a whole heap of grown-up fun.

Occupying the historical space of former restaurant Ethos, Ettie’s invites you off Elizabeth Street in central Hobart and in to a dynamic world that addresses your disposition.

There’s the bar, dining room, lounge and courtyard. Each has been styled slightly separately, but the same understated glamour mixed with raw elegance runs throughout.

It’s easy enough to sit at a round share table with a heavy-bottomed negroni, swanked by walls of wine, watching trendies swan in and out of the bar. Equally relaxing is chilling outside on a cane chair, where stones and bricks incase the small courtyard. Sharing bi-fold glass doors with this is the lounge, which features a peacock blue couch, straw mats and faux fur throws.

We sit here and nibble a generous dollop of punchy chicken liver parfait with pickles; sweet, fatty crudo and gamey terrine.

The rest of the menu is enjoyed via the dining room and mentions ravioli en brodo, pork cheek, steak frites and pan roasted whole chicken with pinkeyes. Amid white tablecloths, bentwood chairs and a glint of gold, it’s bistro dining you won’t find often in Tasmania.

The crew behind Willing Brothers wine bar up the road in North Hobart is responsible for all this, so naturally the list of vino is a stand out. Brash Higgins sits beside Sinapius and Jean-Marc Pillot by the pour, in addition to bottles of funky imports and reliable locals.

Some of Hobart’s best wait staff have gathered at Ettie’s, meaning you’ll get top service alongside food by chef Vladimir Panevin.

Pop Ettie’s on your must-eat list.