Teage Ezard – he of Gingerboy and Ezard in Melbourne’s CBD – has recently added a Yarra Valley string to his bow, and what sweet music he’s making out at Levantine Hill, a wildly ambitious winery and cellar door that’s the region’s newest drawcard. Designed by Karl Fender (MONA), the stunning, gently sweeping building is at once a cellar door, an all-day eatery with three huge wine barrels in which to dine a feature, and the signature restaurant helmed by Ezard where it’s five- or eight-courses only, matched with estate wines.

Ezard’s trademark Asian accents have been replaced with European flair, the better to showcase the acclaimed wines (under winemaker Paul Bridgeman) that take the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy as their spiritual guide.

The heirloom garden salad – pretty as a picture, filled with good stuff grown on site – is matched with the elegant rose, say, while the multi-varietal ‘Albus’ a perfect partner for the nori-wrapped sashimi tuna served with puffed rice and radish. It’s all perfectly lovely, if somewhat conservative and expensive ($120 for five courses food only), but dessert will have you leaving on a high. A sphere of effortlessly light chestnut bavarois with a centre of lemon curd, surrounded by tiny pieces of dehydrated chocolate mousse and little wood sorrel leaves makes for a show-stopping finale. Service is knowledgable, the stylish room comfortable, the views across the undulating vineyard beyond lovely. Levantine Hill provides yet another excellent reason to visit the Valley.

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