Eighteen years on, one of the CBD’s trailblazing fine diners is still forging a new path.

This old dog has a few new tricks, thanks to Jarrod di Blasi. Over the past three years, the young gun head chef has been quietly adding his refined Japanese style to the bold Southeast Asian flavours that saw Teage Ezard’s eponymous basement restaurant hailed as one of the city’s best.

A signature oyster shooter – now with a yuzu and apple sweetness that dances with fresh wasabi heat – remains the only way to start a meal here; the virtuosic dessert tasting platter, the only way to end.

In between, quail wrapped in pancetta served with a supple savoury pancake is at once dexterously technical and terrifically delicious. King salmon might come delicately poached until velvety soft and crowned with skin puffed to a crunch, while glossy-lacquered, magenta-fleshed duck makes very good friends with panko-covered eggplant and a fermented chilli sauce.

And then there are the dumplings, a universal favourite, which di Blasi takes to the next level. Three silken pillowslips plumped to bursting with sweet scallop meat are anointed with a broth of soy and mirin and a drizzle of chilli oil for tingle. This is one pillow (well, three) you could quite comfortably rest your head on.

Service might be sir/madam formal though it’s never stiff, while the covetable cellar of worldly wines has interest at surprisingly accessible levels.

Marching into its third decade, Ezard’s renewed energy shows no sign of slowing.

Must eat dish: Scallop dumplings
Instagram: @ezardmelbourne