An open fireplace. An Italian menu. A mesmerising view of a pizza oven covered in shimmering blue metal… With a glass of wine in hand and a friend to catch up with on a chilly night, it’s happy days at Farina 00.

A starter of mushroom arancini arrives and, as we tell our children, it’s not what’s on the outside that matters. Cricket ball-sized and piled with aged parmigiano reggiano, the arancini’s crunchy exterior ain’t pretty but boy she packs a flavour punch of mushrooms, truffle salt and provolone cheese. Another starter of lightly coated fried calamari benefits from a good hit of lemon and some sliced chilli heat.

The pizzas coming out of the metal beast look good but, knowing the pasta is made fresh daily from Italian 00 flour, we double down. It seems the tables of couples and friends chatting – yes, this is a restaurant where you don’t have to shout – have the same idea.

The mains of slow-braised pork neck pappardelle and mushroom gigli (a twisted strand pasta) eventually defeat us, and the waitress knowingly asks if we’d likely a takeaway container. Don’t mind if we do and thanks for not being too fancy to offer. Extra points, then, for genuine hospitality and professional service that is on display right through the meal.