As popular with the pre-show crowd as it is with riverside sippers taking in its glorious views that capture the best of Melbourne’s cityscape.

Forming part of the Van Haandel group – which includes Stokehouse City and its yet-to-be-reborn sibling down in St Kilda – Anthony Musarra oversees proceedings and the menu, and while this Italian is a pizza-free zone, it’s none the poorer for it. There’s an extensive offering of primi, pasta, secondi, that caters as easily to an early bite as a full-blown meal.

The appetisers section is not only a good spot to start; you could easily make a meal out of the many highlights contained here. Such things as the roasted scallops, served with pancetta and with a hit of green chilli, or vibrant broad beans served with fresh mozzarella and white anchovies, are made for teaming with a glass of crisp pinot grigio from the on-theme list, as is the good selection of salumi and cheese.

Heartier fare could include a hefty lamb rump with smoked tomato and farro, or perfectly pink duck breast teamed with quince and cavalo nero (don’t call it kale). The tight pasta offering might include a simple and elegant crab spaghettini crowned with the textural crunch of pangrattato, or an expert risotto.

Hiccups with service in its infancy have since given way to a polished offering, where city suits debrief over drinks next to opening night pearls and everyone’s having a fine time indeed, where ordering another round of negronis only seems right.

Address: River Terrace, Hamer Hall, Arts Centre, Melbourne

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Tel: (03) 8698 8800