It’s one of the busiest restaurants in town, but if you’ve never meandered down Ash Street into the arms of the ivy complex, you wouldn’t realise how important Felix is to the underbelly of our city. It’s a bustling French bistro with a rowdy bar, full to the brim dining room and a wine list and menu that puts a shine on the classics, all delivered with a smile, a joke and welcoming sincerity. This is what French bistros were always meant to be.

There’s a seafood station with the catch of the day on display, house-baked bread on show, and a genuine Parisian atmosphere with tile floors, dark classic bistro chairs, white tablecloths and low-lamp lighting. Nathan Johnson is a clever chef. Not one to worry about ego on the plate, he guides his team to plate up simple, classic dishes with flair that place the emphasis on a great feed. Start with split Moreton Bay bugs, steamed and served cold on ice with Marie rose sauce. Twice-baked Gruyere soufflé is a star, while duck, pork, pistachio and apricot combine in a classic terrine Maison that’s light, rich and wonderful with a pile of cornichons and grilled sourdough. Steak frites – grain-fed Ranger’s Valley black angus sirloin, no less – is an absolute must order. Served simply with a dressed watercress salad and crisp fries, you may want to order two, but instead save room for the apple tarte Tatin for two with a dollop of cinnamon ice cream.