The steak tartare has made a comeback at Sydney restaurants this year and the classic incarnation at Felix is the best of the bunch. Hand-cut beef tenderloin with finely chopped eschalot, cornichon and a quivering egg yolk is seasoned at the table with a few splashes of Worcestershire, Tabasco and 3 types of mustard. A bottle of sherry-scented Jura from eastern France is a refreshing pairing from the sommelier.

From the Art Deco chandeliers and smart white metro tiles, right down to the long menu of classic brasserie fare, you could be in Paris. Briny, chilled oysters from the South Coast Shoalhaven river are a must-have, shucked to order at the cold bar, or if it’s date night, splurge on the $225 ‘Le Grand’ seafood platter.

An entrée of twice-baked Gruyere soufflé with white onion veloute is rich and yolky, so opt for lighter mains to follow, such as crispy-skinned rotisserie spatchcock or a silky salmon fillet with soubise.

You’ll want to save room for dessert when there’s the likes of a delightfully flaky apple tarte Tatin with Calvados crème fraiche in the house. It’s made for two and is straight from Paris, with love.

Must eat dish: steak tartare with condiments
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