Few restaurants have weathered the trial of time and trend as elegantly as Ristorante Fellini.

The fundamentals that lured a succession of the Glitter Strip’s sparkliest stars for obscenely lavish long lunches and champagne-soaked dinners in the naughty nineties are just as enticing today.

It starts with that mega-buck marina view, with diners able to window shop for luxury craft through floor-to-ceiling glass frontage. The service – on the traditional side – is as polished as the silverware … although they usually save the starch for the heavy white tablecloths.

While irreproachable ingredients are smartly presented, the food isn’t putting on airs and graces – this is comforting Italian fare. With on-site pasta factory Pastificio Fellini using specialist pasta machines from Italy, they have the inside advantage.

Choose a crisp white wine – perhaps an Italian soave – to complement the signature linguette ai frutti di mare, a long flat pasta cooked with seafood in extra virgin olive oil, garlic, a hint of chilli, tomatoes, white wine and parsley. The bonus bounty could include prawns from the trawlers next door, local cuttlefish, mussels from Spring Bay and clams from Coffin Bay. The figs are sensational if the time of year is right, while fiori di zucchini (zucchini flowers filled with spanner crab meat and lightly fried in a yeast batter) fits the bill for balmy nights.

Must-eat dish: Linguette ai frutti di mare
Instagram: @fellinigc