Tuoi’s unfussy, delicately flavoured dishes have their roots in her homeland in northern Vietnam, with every paste made from scratch and as much produce as possible coming from her own garden.

The high standards are still evident in a beautifully balanced menu, from fresh betel leaves with caramelised pork and “incendiary components” to a salad of chicken breasts poached in coconut milk, a massaman curry of Mayura Station wagyu beef, and on to a perfect finale with, say, a subtle lime brulee or a pistachio almond tart with lemongrass ice cream.

You might also start with Tuoi’s Hanoi spring rolls – like no other spring roll you’ve tried – followed by a dish of dumplings with a gently spiced oxtail filling, sitting in a fragrant broth, then a serve of succulent SA snapper with dill and turmeric.

Grant’s extraordinary wine list, presented in book form or the slimmer, summarised version, repays careful attention. If that seems too hard, ask the knowledgeable staff for recommendations, and be rewarded with interesting, sometimes great wines carefully selected to complement the cuisine, many available by the glass.

The 2012 Joh. Jos. Prum Kabinett Reisling, for example, truly a match made in heaven, is excellent value at $17 a glass.