If the words deep-fried bocconcini make your heart leap (in a good way), get thee to Figo. For the uninitiated, it means “cool” in Italian. And you’ll be feeling quite figo having this little gem in your dining repertoire.

The Elwood newcomer might be small on space but it is packed with personality and old-school charm, with a retro meat slicer on the bench, a letter-board menu above the open kitchen – and did that cheeky waiter just wink at me?

Italian fried food, pizza, booze and dessert are the go, to be taken away or enjoyed amid the 20-seat diner- style digs. Despite this age of clean eating, Figo isn’t shy about its fried fare. The Italians even have their own name for a shop selling fried snacks: a friggitoria.

Kick things off with that bocconcini cheese, juicy calamari fritti in a light batter with lemon wedges, deep-fried polenta, or panzerotto fritto, two satisfyingly crunchy deep-fried mini calzones stuffed with ham, mozzarella, tomato and basil.

And since you can have too much of a good thing, balance all that fried yumminess with a Caprese salad bursting with gorgeous tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

Pizzas are a strong suit. There are 18 styles on excellent bases that hold their own without being dense – just supportive with minimal sag. The carbonara dials up the richness with pancetta, garlic, egg and pecorino, while the Stallone Italiano is a meaty treat loaded with salami, sausage, ham and mini lamb meatballs.

Desserts like gelato and Nutella pizza, well-priced vino and beer, and good tunes combine for a fun night, whether it’s early dinner with the kids or a late bite. How figo.

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