We loved them in Willunga. Now, their superb Seppeltsfield location and the much larger audience the Barossa attracts have given Sharon Romeo and David Swain the scope to deliver an even better version of their signature style of dining.

Apparently simple dishes allow the very best produce to shine, unfettered by fussy techniques. Take the blue fin tuna: glistening, succulent cubes of ruby flesh served with sprouted, raw lentils, lightly pickled onion rings and chilli oil, cloaked in translucent slivers of lardo (cured pork fat).

Charred broccoli is lifted with a little preserved lemon and a generous dusting of grated, salted ricotta.

Slow-cooked beef brisket in a rich broth with a hint of warm spice and anchovy is given colour and crunch with a crown of cooked and raw Brussel sprouts.

And luscious desserts like the totally vegan yoghurt and miso ice cream with chickpea meringue and praline cry out for a Seppeltsfield fortified or a Portuguese madeira from the outstanding wine list.

The open kitchen under head chef Sam Smith’s calm authority, and the historic former bottling hall, provide the perfect backdrop.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.