The Fino story goes back more than 15 years to the cottage in Willunga where chef David Swain and front-of-house dynamo Sharon Romeo first made magic together. In 2014, they shifted to the Barossa, as part of the redevelopment of Seppeltsfield, and then, two years ago, added Fino Vino, bottling the spirit of the original and bringing it to the city.

Romeo has now had time to build and counsel a service team the equal of any in town. And, in the kitchen, the calm assurance of Swain is evident on the plate. This is Fino food. Grounded, intelligent, understated – a bit like the bloke himself.

Some combinations, say zucchini, ricotta and pistachios, can look dead simple. Dig deeper, however, and you find the charred vegie ribbons and housemade ricotta make the perfect couple. Fillets of tommy ruff have lustrous just-set flesh beneath skin that looks as if it has been to the gates of hell. The Italian masterpiece veal saltimbocca is rendered perfectly, with a sage leaf beneath as well as on top of the seamless prosciutto wrapper, the quality of the meat inside outstanding.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.