We waited an eternity (ok it was three years) for chef Lennox Hastie (ex-Asador Etxebarri, Spain) to find a site and deliver his considered, focused ideal of cooking over smouldering embers. The outcome is extraordinary simple eating in an atmosphere that accepts those wearing a Black Sabbath T and jeans as much as one in a three-piece suit.

Firedoor is a triumph of the love of single ingredients and the supreme focused cookery of chef Lennox Hastie to reveal it at its optimum.

Some may find it too simple, but in food “simple” is often the hardest, yet most rewarding — because there is nowhere to hide.

Step behind the sliding steel “firedoor” and grab a stool at the bar, in front of the kitchen, on a communal table made from a Victorian ironbark bridge or tables along the window.

The kitchen’s two furnaces burn hardwoods from a range of fruit and nut trees to temperatures of 1600C to create coals on which to cook. It’s not smoked meats, and seafood and vegetables, for the most part, are the main attraction. As such there is a wonderful pervading delicate nature to each dish. Think split marron smoked over applewood coals and garnished with native herbs. Pipis tossed with garlic shoots and chilli. Blushing lamb rump cap nestled on smoked eggplant, or the motherload of aged meats — a 277-day dry-aged rib on the bone.

Must eat: Smoked marron