Fleet’s minimalist Scandi-style fit-out is an ideal canvas for showcasing chef Josh Lewis’s innovative and delicious snacks and small plates, which pay great respect to local and native produce.

A smoked mullet pate with it’s show-stopping crimple of crispy potato chips is devoured in seconds. The flathead and asparagus is a lean, green flavour bomb with garlic scapes and capers. Onion skins might not be your first choice for dessert but by now you trust Lewis, and alongside strawberry, shiso and cultured cream it’s a mouth-watering triumph.

Sommelier Astrid McCormack makes sure you’re drinking something as interesting as it is delicious.

Sophisticated and new school yet unpretentious, Fleet could be in New York or Copenhagen. Let’s hope it anchors in Bruns for good.

Must eat: Veal sweetbread schnitty sanga