The “Melbournese movement” is an initiative of the Grossi family to preserve Italian culture here in the city. It takes its corporeal form in the now-annual Tomato Festival, where at the height of the summer season passata making is the order of the day with Guy Grossi and others sharing their saucy secrets. The aim however is a more broad appreciation of the handed-down skills and traditions of generations of Italians who have made Australia home.

And to that list you can now add the new-look Florentino Grill, which is as “Melbournese” as it comes. Italian traditions seen through Australian eyes, it’s a very Grossi celebration of what makes dining out a joy. Big hearted and generous, it’s boisterously enthusiastic in style with an ethos of eat and drink and all will be fine.

The Mills and Gorman-designed space has dispensed with the tablecloths, adding custom light fittings and brass features to the mirrored wall, with dark timber stains offset by light American oak floorboards, while the huge picture windows let busy Bourke St peer in.

You’ll still find all walks of Melbourne here, which could be a big table of gesticulating, super Tuscan-drinking blokes, or a duo of hairspray and animal prints gossiping over antipasti; private school uniforms having pasta with dad over here, a couple of loosened ties sealing a deal over steak over there.

And what steak it is. A Josper oven and asado grill are the new toys the kitchen get to play with, and it’s obvious they’re having a grand old time using the grill, especially, to excellent effect.

A hanger steak – one of five options – is gloriously treated, with a char of unapologetic intensity only highlighting the supple tenderness of the deep ruby meat. A lemon cheek, equally charred, the only accompaniment. Simple, sublime.

The rest of the menu is tightly focused on Tuscany, with a long list of brilliant antipasti. The musetto, or pigs’ head terrine, is a triumph of silken, rich decadence, while the palle del nonno, little nuggets of perfectly caramelised fennel-heavy pork sausages served in a cast-iron pan with pickled artichoke, is a timely reminder of just how good a homemade sausage can be.

Pasta remains a must-do course. Testaroli – a Tuscan speciality made from chickpea flour that’s known as ‘pancake pasta’ due to it being cooked on a wide, hot pan – vibrant with basil and excellent olive oil is as texturally interesting as it is alluringly delicious, while the fat worm-like pici pasta is the perfect accompaniment for a deftly subtle ragu of wild boar.

Service, with Carlos Grossi leading the charge, is clever, intuitive, and genuinely hospitable. If you’ve forgotten what it’s like to be welcomed into a restaurant and looked after with warmth – and let’s face it, some of the hipper than thou hot spots aren’t always the most open-armed – then make a date.

On one hand it’s a new lease on life; on another, it’s a brand new day. The Grill is born anew and it’s nothing short of great.