Your table won’t be flipped, so settle in for the afternoon and enjoy a long, boozy meal of five courses that’s astonishing value. The experimental set menu on weekends is a chance for chef Shayne Mansfield and his kitchen to audition recipes for potential additions to the a la carte dinner line-up, but that certainly doesn’t mean you’re getting sub-par dishes.

Snacks could include a chicken-skin terrine with kombu that’s deliciously fatty, salty and crunchy, and more substantial options like Cowra lamb belly with a carrot tahini sauce made from fermented trimmings of this often-underrated veg.

Eduardo Molina’s wine list focuses on minimal-intervention drops, spanning the spectrum from easy drinking to more challenging. For adventurous diners, Molina’s suggestion of a Sven Joschke Fume Blanc (a sauvignon blanc on oak that softens the passionfruit notes) might lead into an invitation to try something “more interesting”: a completely natural, sulphite-free Georgian Aladasturi that’s fruity and fresh.

Flotilla is the kind of place where diners can happily leave the heavy lifting to the experts and just enjoy being along for the ride.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.