One of Sydney’s swankiest waterfront fine diners, Flying Fish is losing none of its shine despite the proliferation of rivals at Barangaroo and nearby Darling Harbour.

The reason? Head chef Ian Royle continues to produce artworks on a plate, day and night. A meal should start with something from the huge sashimi selection (the yellowfin tuna with grapefruit, tempura shiso, black pepper dressing, perhaps) then veer into warm territory with charred storm clams, or split tiger prawns with chicken and rye butter.

For mains, a roast hapuku with white balsamic potato and pippie vinaigrette or a whole golden trout with ginger sauce and coconut rice.

Must eat: The vanilla poached petuna ocean trout with fennel crème, caper berries