New French restaurant Franca has a wonderfully warm atmosphere recalling softly lit brasseries past, but the Potts Point clientele might soon demand candles or lamps on the tables, many lit on the evening we visit by the phone torches of diners squinting at the menu.

That’s not stopping anyone from having a ripping time, though. The place is packed and walk-ins are being turned away. Housed in the former Fratelli Fresh site on Macleay Street, Franca looks nothing like its predecessor thanks to a multimillion-dollar makeover by owner Andrew Becher, architect Dirk Anderson and interior design firm Steel and Stitch. The formerly utilitarian space has been transformed into a beautiful dining room with moulded white ceiling, parquetry floors and plush green leather banquettes and chairs upholstered in red velvet. 

The smartly dressed waitstaff bounce from table to table, delivering service with grace and savoir-faire. It’s hard not to fall in love with the art of old-school hospitality on display here. 

The wine list, meanwhile, though on the pricy side, is a thoughtful exploration of Australian, New Zealand and French labels.

On the menu, chef Alexis Besseau (formerly of Est and Bathers’ Pavilion) traverses France with a slight contemporary twist that’s nicely executed and carefully considered, but could benefit from a heavier hand when it comes to seasoning. 

Nevertheless, lightly smoked swordfish is a delightful textural treat sharing the plate with swordfish brandade, radishes and witlof. It’s a lovely dish, but had us reaching for the sea salt to let it sing. A spin on a Niçoise with olive tapenade, grape tomatoes, dried egg yolk and tuna sashimi is a neat idea, though I’m not convinced it’s better than the classic salad done well. Florets of Romanesco broccoli and cauliflower purée make a nice base for beautifully pearlescent John Dory, while the big-flavoured ruby-red wagyu bavette served with fresh peas, shallots and jus is pretty hard to fault. 

A tart raspberry sorbet plays nicely against hazelnut cream millefeuille with cracking light pastry and plump fresh raspberries. 

It’s all pretty lovely and clearly the locals think so, too. If the chef nails the seasoning, it could be even harder to land a table.