Potts Point has a knack for dishing up good restaurants. New French brasserie Franca is packed and walk-ins are being turned away – for good reason. On pretty Macleay Street, and housed in the former Fratelli Fresh site, it looks nothing like its predecessor, thanks mostly to a multimillion-dollar makeover. Owned by Andrew Becher, Franca’s got a true brasserie feel with high white ceilings, parquetry floors, green banquettes, red velvet chairs, brass-trimmed marble table tops, a cute little bar and a small open kitchen.

Proficient and well-groomed waitstaff dish up some oft-forgotten etiquette and old-school hospitality while in the kitchen Alexis Besseau (Est., Bathers’ Pavilion) traverses the French countryside on a menu of classics given a contemporary twist. Chunky, smoked swordfish partners swordfish brandade, radishes and witlof in a lovely textural starter. Then a spin on Nicoise reveals a plate of olive tapenade, grape tomatoes and dried egg yolk atop tuna sashimi. Florets of romanesco and cauliflower puree lie beneath a pearlescent John dory, while a rich, ruby red wagyu bavette comes with fresh peas, eschalots and jus. End a stellar meal with a sharp raspberry sorbet and hazelnut cream millefeuille with light pastry. It’s all very nice, and it’s clear the locals think so, too