Who knew taking the waters would work up such an appetite? Up here in spa country, the only thing better than relaxing in Hepburn’s mineral springs is a meal afterwards. While its bigger sibling up the road has long been the go-to gastro heart of the region, Daylesford doesn’t have the monopoly on a long lunch.

Hepburn Springs is much more a locals’ affair, but the locals are more than happy to share. Good news, as there’s lots of good things to share at Frank and Connie’s Kitchen.

Caliopi Buck has taken over what was the short-lived Moor Please, transforming it 10 months ago into a humble, homely space where she’ll jump out from the open kitchen to deliver dishes from the changing blackboard menu and where the cooking is honest, and truly tasty.

The restaurant is named after Buck’s grandparents, and there’s a real sense of old-fashion generosity that’s perfectly in keeping with the mismatched floral crockery, bone-handled cutlery and the “whatever comes out of the pot” philosophy.

Not from the pot, but the fryer, and perfect with a cold beer are the queso sticks ($14), three fat pastry cigars filled with a mix of dairy — including cheddar, Philly and sour cream — amped with onion, paprika, cumin and jalapeño. Crunchy cheesy goodness, they are fab fried fun that require no thinking.

Four generously piled swordfish tacos are elevated to excellent thanks to “Connie’s” salsa — a chunky concoction with great creeping heat ($20), while Buck shows deft balance in a sweet-sharp salad of green beans and soft roasted pumpkin with pickled shallots and golden raisins ($16).

It’s a lovely vegetarian counter to the naughty lamb ribs, crisp skinned and crunchy, with melty meat underneath ($24, right). Chimichurri comes as a side to dunk the bone-handle ribs into.

To finish, Nana’s cookie recipes get a workout (as does her baklava) but it’s Buck’s frozen vanilla slice ($14) that wins the day. A spiced apple puree sandwiched between layers of vanilla-flecked ice cream, the slice comes topped with a milk sorbet that adds cool creaminess; nutty dark choc rubble for crunch. Just like the restaurant, it’s understatedly sweet and lovely.

That cold beer to go with the cheese sticks could be a Furphy or Peroni red, while the short wine list shows nods to the good grapes of the region — Fairbank viognier from Bendigo, a Macedon prosecco, a Heathcote sparkling rose — all offered by glass and bottle.

Warm-hearted, welcoming and personable, the team seems to know the drill. Buck keeps a keen eye on the room, though I’d love to see wines by the glass poured at the table.

There are a couple of footpath tables for those bringing a four-legged friend to lunch.

Small plates in the teens, bigger in the mid-20s, it’s a nicely priced changing offering aimed to keep locals on repeat.

Come for the waters, stay for the food. Hepburn has a spring in its step.

This review originally appeared on heraldsun.com.au.