Offering a seamless experience from start to finish, this 19-year-old tratt has truly come of age. Fratelli Paradiso was established by three good Italian boys – Marco Ambrosino and brothers Giovanni and Enrico Paradiso – who felt Sydney deserved the kind of pasta joint that Melbourne takes for granted. While it may be famous for its hand-cut ribbons, there’s plenty to snack on while you wait for them to arrive. Caramelised figs add honeyed sweetness to a creamy Gorgonzola risotto, while golden beetroot shines in a salad of pear and creamy buffalo curds. A curly-edged lasagnetta has all the richness of a sauce that has sat on the stove for a day and the tender meat to prove it. Scampi spaghetti is served with the split shellfish on the side, and the white flesh tossed through the sweet tomato sugo. Those who hang around drinking sangiovese until late (and there’s plenty of them) need only take a quick nap before returning, with the all-day eatery opening at 7am for cappuccinos and panino. It’s dedication like this that has seen Fratelli Paradiso graduate to beloved Sydney institution.