We waited almost three years for former Chez Panisse chef Danielle Alvarez to open on Oxford Street.

Lured by the Merivale Group to bring a touch of Amerciana and the farm-to-plate ethos of her former employer, Alvarez was earmarked a big drawcard with Ben Greeno as part of The Paddington birth.

Alvarez’s food is a complete joy to eat. She’s spent her time connecting with farmers, and it shows on the plate.

Wonderful wild kingfish crudo gets a kick out of horseradish, smoked roe and petite onion rings. Crisp asparagus shines in a puddle of burnt butter and delicate triangoli pasta with parmigiano. Then the pretty pink flesh and Moorish crunch of crackling on a Greenvale pork chop carved off the bone benefits from honey and lemon gremolata and wilted spigariello.

Finally, the gooey give of macadamia meringue gets a lick from sheep’s yoghurt and strawberry sorbet. Good god, it’s delicious.

Must eat: Moorlands lamb, laver, broad beans, gem lettuce, mint