Paris as seen through the eye of Melbourne, French Saloon offers a terrific execution of Gallic classics rendered with modern-day class.

Such hits as the steak tartare – thick, hand-cut meat with sticky yolk and punchy Tabasco heat – and a knockout steak frites with a rich, moreish Roquefort crust and malt vinegar-splashed chips are teamed with lighter, brighter fare that shows an eye on the future while respecting the past.
The scallop carpaccio, for instance, is sublime, wafer-thin slices of dreamy, creamy shellfish dressed with mignonette and a touch of roasted lemon for bite, though the pond of creamy burrata curds with golden beetroots and pickled witlof is equally deft.

An interesting cellar offers great drinking for those happy to splash some cash, while switched-on service by consummate professionals makes spending time in the handsome room a joy. Linger a little longer over a faultless creme caramel that teeters elegantly on the edge of burnt bitterness and you have a perfect package that Paris would find hard to match.

Must Eat Dish: Scallop carpaccio