France is not so far away when you ascend some narrow stairs above Kirk’s and Kirk’s wine bar in Hardware Lane and step into the French Saloon. Here, under a pinot red ceiling, you can fully indulge your Francophile instincts: starting with ‘Saloon Caviar’ and a Lillet Blanc, or a plate of smoked tongue pimped with soured cream and onion that might better suit a Loire valley vouvray.

The wine list is predominantly French, the menu as Gallic as it comes. You could almost be in Paris as you tread the French Saloon’s unvarnished boards, settle into a bentwood chair and tear into warm baguette bread.

The illusion is enhanced by something as simple, and precisely plated, as steak frites with Roquefort butter. But you wouldn’t want to miss the roasted half chicken here, a marvellous bird bursting with sweet, funky juice; or the darkly handsome roasted duck breast. French Saloon’s kitchen sends it out with a luxuriously rich cassoulet where the beans are allowed to shine.

Hand-cut chips have plenty of salty snap, while a gem lettuce salad is dressed down with buttermilk.

To finish? A brittle fruit tart, perhaps. Or salted caramel madeleines hot out of the oven. “Please allow 12 minutes”, our waiter advises. We’d wait an hour, they’re that good.

Must eat dish: Roasted duck, confit leg with cassoulet
Instagram: @frenchsaloon