Let’s be honest, cheese is one of our finest culinary creations. The textures, the flavours, the aromas – it is quite extraordinary. If you have cheese, you have a meal.

The word itself though is quite, well, cheesy really. I’ve often wished we’d adopted the French fromage instead. Go on, say it out loud – it’s a wonderful word. So when news spread that Brisbane had its first licensed fromagerie (cheese shop), well, I had to make a booking.

Fromage the Cow’s owner is French expat Tony Launay, who has years of experience in France, England, Spain and Canada is now dishing up marvellous local and imported cheeses to the good folk of Milton. But it’s not just takeaway cheese – you can also take a seat and dine in.

A floor-to-ceiling glass room houses fridges with some of the most astonishing smallgoods, cheeses and dairy products available. There’s a long bar, called The Orangey, to drink and snack on tapas out the back, but the dining room proper is quaintly elbow- to-elbow with cheese fiends. It’s a great space, though I’m not a fan of the transparent plastic chairs.

The food is deeply satisfying in a homely way. Blistered cherry tomatoes and basil make a perfect match with fresh burrata that oozes on the plate, though I could do without the olives.

A double-baked cheese souffle using smoked provolone and pecorino makes the cheese the hero.

Next, a rich porcini risotto makes a case for a must-order dish. Mushroom flavour dominates, enriched by baby leek, and manchego and parmigiano cheeses. Then a light creamed cheese delice arrives adorned in passionfruit, raspberry gel and mascarpone.

As the Monty Python crew told us in The Life Of Brian, “Blessed are the cheesemakers”. In Milton, so too are the cheese-eaters.