Who knew a simple skewer could change an evening. Charred octopus stacked up against the rich guile of guanciale, collapsed, sweet cabbage and a good lathering of fermented green chilli, all lovingly flame-licked on the robata. And, bam! The big flavour moment we’d been waiting for.

Fujisaki, the latest to join the throng at Barangaroo has high expectations to meet. Part of the Lotus Dining Group (Madame Shanghai, Lotus, Bing’s Bao & Beer) the modern Japanese restaurant is banking on the culinary nous of two chefs who have independently had an impact on Sydney dining.

Executive chef Chui Lee Luk set French hearts aflutter at Claude’s, while sushi master Ryuichi Yoshii (ex-Yoshii) is all about omakase (sushi and sashimi) and honouring the catch of the day.

It’s all very swish. Velvet seating, a sushi counter, dark timbers, brass, charred wood walls and large skylights inside, and there’s a swag of alfresco seats and three private dining rooms, too. But what’s most pleasing is eating the food of such amazing chefs again.

A salad of kombu, pickles and shredded lettuce is just stunning. Lobes of sea urchin roe top sweet spanner crab, avocado and a dashi jelly with delightful depth, while wasabi and shiso bring out the beauty in sweet baby corn charred in their husks. Follow that with Yoshii’s sublime sashmi of kingfish, cuttlefish, King George whiting and scallop, and it all seems hard to fault. But chicken liver parfait is out of place, and I’d give dull salted duck a miss, but putting the calibre of Luk and Yoshii together is akin to rockstars forming a supergroup.

There will be moments where a collision of creativity affects overall cohesiveness. But with an impressive sake, wine and cocktail list, friendly and knowledgeable service and enough exemplary eating experiences early on, it’s fair to say Fujisaki is adding some serious culinary cache to Barangaroo.