Tradition meets innovation at Gambaro, one of Brisbane’s oldest seafood restaurants with a pedigree dating to the original fish and chip shop that the Italian family opened directly across the street in the early 1950s.

The newly remodelled restaurant, elegant in muted blues and browns, may have new shoes, but it is still family run.

Spanner crab and ricotta ravioli is delicate and fragrant, pillows of plump pasta sitting in a light bisque and a smattering of tomato cubes. It’s a pretty dish that primes the palate for panko-crumbed barramundi. Michael’s Special – in honour of the patriarch, who at 80 is still working with his sons – is simple but satisfying, the fish fillets accompanied by a citrus slaw and parmesan-cream dipping sauce. Meanwhile, a side of broccoli with anchovies provides crunch and a burst of saltiness.

King prawns are fat, butterflied and barbecued with shallots and salmoriglio, a tangy Southern Italian condiment made of lemon juice, olive oil, minced garlic and chopped oregano and parsley. Lovely paired with a Vasse Felix chardonnay from the thoughtfully composed wine list, which favours big name labels over more boutique offerings.

Dessert gets interesting, with a wafer of pineapple anchoring a tower of pudding, guava and pineapple gelato.

Gambaro has a large function room upstairs, but it’s easy to find a quiet spot in the main restaurant, or the adjacent bar looking out over busy Caxton Street and nearby Suncorp Stadium.

Must-eat dish: Moreton Bay bugs
Instagram: @gambaroseafoodrestaurant