Some dishes just can’t be removed from the menu at this Petrie Terrace institution, which has been serving seafood platters, crayfish thermidor and mud crabs since 1972.

But, along with a major revamp of the building and an elegant new fit-out for the restaurant a couple of years ago, the menu has also kept abreast of the times with the selection now including starters such spanner crab and ricotta ravioli with bisque and tomato, grilled scallops with porchetta, apple and hazelnuts.

Main courses include barbecued seafood, whole baked snapper and an array of fresh fish, which can be panko crumbed, beer battered or simply grilled.

The fish, crumbed barramundi and grilled goldband snapper, is perfectly cooked and served simply with lemon and aioli or tartare sauce.

To accompany the mains, there’s a big range of sides, including a crunchy fennel, mint and ricotta salad, chunky hand-cut chips or perhaps roast pumpkin with garlic yoghurt.

Service staff are well-trained and attentive and the well-composed wine list includes a decent array of by-the-glass options.

Exceptional dish: Grilled goldband snapper and panko crumbed barramundi