There’s much at play within the walls of the renewed Hibernian Hall; home to Garum, Guy Grossi’s first foray westward. It could so easily have been a well packaged but pared down version of the Grossi brand, designed to feed and water the guests of the 5-star hotel – The Westin – which stands over it. But there’s nothing pared down about Garum. It is, for a restaurant open just a matter of weeks, showing promise far beyond some of its city competitors.

In my review of Gazette, I pinpointed a missing ingredient to Print Hall’s osteria: brio. That criticism could also be levelled at nearby Post. With stiff competition in the State Buildings, it’s always seemed to struggle to find its feet and a recent change of direction, putting Italian inspiration at its core, hasn’t stemmed the tide. Recent visits have found a distinct lack of interest from the service staff, and food swinging from good to below average. Garum, with its import of Grossi staff from Melbourne, and a capable contingent of Italians walking the floor is a polar opposite. It makes an immediate impact.

Chancing a walk-in, the restaurant near fully booked, we’re told no problem. Our server skips through the menu without missing a beat; Coda Alla Vaccinara, a rich oxtail dish, with a deep, sweet undertone is as good as any she’s tasted in Rome we’re told, with the exception, perhaps, of Nonna’s. Thick sourdough and moretum, an Ancient Roman herb cheese to spread, is complimentary. Linen is a contemporary tone not brilliant white, soft and unstarched. Small points perhaps, but ones that add up. Carbonara, my Roman litmus test spells out its pedigree on the menu: fettuccine, guanciale, pecorino, egg. It’s a capable rendition, and a relief, as I’m so often disappointed (and even saddened) by ropey carbonara. Here the pasta is freshly made, the coating viscous and in balance. Not a hint of heresy, otherwise known as cream.

Another walk-in, and this time a seat at a marble hightop in the bar. The menu here – oysters, salumi, porchetta and of course pasta – is on a par with the restaurant, and perfect lone lunch territory. A tentacle of Fremantle octopus is finished over fire, served in a punchy puttanesca sauce of tomatoes, garlic, olives, and capers. It’s a winner, that sits well with a Margaret River favourite, Dormilona’s Skinnie, a natural Sauv Blanc. The wine list on the whole is a contemporary look at West Australian wine with some choice drops from Lazio. A bowl of hand-cut tonnarelli, with a coating of pork ragu, has comfort lunch written all over it.

No one expects a guard of honour as you leave a restaurant, but a ciao here, a smile and a nod there, is another lesson in the small points. While Guy Grossi has been notable in his presence during the opening, the reins of Garum’s open kitchen are held by Mario Di Natale, who has risen through the Grossi ranks. It’s clear that while the bosses name will draw some punters, it’s Di Natale that will ultimately forge its reputation. He’s off to a cracking start.