Wander into Gauge across the road from the Queensland Museum in South Brisbane and the bright, low-fi interior belies the fact you have crossed the realm into a laboratory for boundary-pushing cuisine. Pull up a custom-made leather chair, or take a seat at the communal table, and tuck into one of the blood tacos for a hard and fast introduction to this establishment’s philosophy of maxing out on flavour. The dark-coloured taco shell – there’s pig’s blood mixed into the tortilla – is filled with a rich duxelles containing mushrooms and bone marrow. Bombastic is an understatement.

Somewhat more restrained, but just as impressive are elegant plates of caraway and rye cracker topped with smoked mussel cream and bottarga; and a giant sumac-dusted rice puff, floating like a cloud on a bed of mackerel brandade. Whether it’s pan-fried cobia with clam and artichoke under a bubble of yeast foam, or salt-baked chicken thigh with barley and wakame under a cloak of brussels sprouts leaves, the dishes are refreshingly different, yet not so off-the-wall that flavour is sacrificed for invention.

Desserts lean towards the savoury – think pumpkin ice cream with mustard fruits and honeycomb; and black-garlic bread with burnt vanilla and brown butter. While dinner is only served Wednesday through Saturday, there’s a daily brunch offering featuring eggs, bircher and avo toast, although probably not as you’ve ever seen them before.

Service is engaging and helpful – the sommelier is keen to offer tastings of various wines – making Gauge an effortless, understated, yet exciting package that works.

Must-eat dish: Mackerel brandade, cracker, sumac
Instagram: @gauge.brisbane