While the Hogg and Lamb-designed aesthetic is comforting, it’s also modern, attracting both shoppers from Fortitude Valley’s swanky James St, along which it resides, and local families, couples and friends.

Drawing most in is the accessible menu – a lengthy mix of antipasti, woodfired pizza, pasta and mains. Zucchini blossoms – lightly battered, deep-fried and blooming with ricotta, accompanied by a sweet-sticky caponata – are a charming starter, and light enough to follow with a heaving bowl of gnocchi.

There are three vegetarian versions to choose from, with a solid, classic four-cheese rendition, salty and sour from gorgonzola. But the real drawcard here is the pizza. With well over a dozen white and red options to choose from, the bases consistently boast that admired bubbly, charry, chewy crust.

Just as authentic is the wine list, covering everything from small-batch, hard-to-find bottles to the Italian big-hitters, complemented by cocktails and Italian beers. Gemelli is an Italian suitable for everything from midweek date nights to celebratory affairs.

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