When Gerard’s Bistro rode its magic carpet into town a few years ago it quickly became the “it” restaurant. Gerard’s represented change, embracing the new wave that released us from the formal fastidiousness of finer dining without compromising on food or wine.

Gerard’s smart, casual swagger put it on the map, but its evolution since has it on a par with some of the best. Owned by the Moubment Group (The Defiant Duck, The Apo, Hatch & Co, Laruche), it’s lost none of its innocent charm, but garnered a certain maturity, and with it, a satisfying consistency.

Mustard, paprika and olive-coloured cushions add a warming Turkish vibe to the chic industrial motif of concrete bar, Moroccan tiles and sharp, defined lines.

Dine on high chairs in the bar, in the courtyard or the dining room anchored by a layered wood feature wall that frames the kitchen where chef Ben Williamson plies his trade.

While a Middle Eastern thread weaves through the menu, African and European influences add exciting punctuations. Start with oysters – Moonlight Flat’s Clair de Lune Bouton arrive natural with a sumac mignonette, while steamed angassi wade in buttermilk dotted by Aleppo pepper oil.

Lamb tartare (laham nayyeh), is served with crisp bread and imbued with harissa. Preserved lemon adds zing and egg yolk brings it together.