At Giro d’Italia, owner/chef Domenico de Marco is taking North Carlton locals on a ride through Italy, one dish at a time.  

And don’t they race in for his tortelli – sunshine-vibrant plump packets of sweet roasted pumpkin sprinkled with Amaretti crumbs – and equally memorable gnocchi tossed through a rich duck ragu with a clever spritz of orange.

From the focaccia he serves with a side of Napoli for dunking, to the pork and fennel sausages he makes, Domenico is kneading and baking, rolling and making, toasting and roasting in the kitchen, including the cotoletta alla valdostana, a hefty crunchy-crumbed puck of veal that’s stuffed with fontina cheese and smoky ham. 

To finish, don’t miss the excellent tiramisu – made to de Marco’s nonna’s recipe, it’s a cream-heavy version with a tickle of coffee and firm-but-fluffy sponge. A tight Italian wine list is augmented by four local labels on tap for carafes and glasses, while BYO Wednesdays are a hit.

With a name referencing Italy’s answer to the Tour de France, and an upstairs dining space where bottomless pasta is served for just $30 a pop, Giro d’Italia is a neighbourhood favourite worth a visit from afar. Get on your bike.

Must Eat Dish: Cotoletta alla valdostana