A restaurant inside a hotel can be a nefarious hit and miss, but Glass Brasserie, a long-time inner-city mainstay and pre-theatre favourite, has retained its credibility while others have come and gone.

Frequented by corporate high flyers for years, international visitors and local foodies, Glass is a lesson in elegance and simplicity with a comprehensive menu overseen by owner and executive chef Luke Mangan.

Starters come in several categories — raw, tapas and entree — and include Russian caviar, fresh oysters, tempura zucchini flowers or wood-roasted slit prawns.

Then there’s the impressive and evolving mains selection of things like generous snapper fillets served with crispy prawns, a Thai salad and an spicy broth. Or a braised short rib with spiced pickled cabbage puree and shaved beets.

A large “off the grill” selection has been a big draw for meat lovers. It’s pricey, but a restaurant of true, understated glamour.

Must eat: Chicken chasseur for two with truffle mash and rocket salad