You know a dish is good when it causes you to uncontrollably dance with glee in your seat.

That’s the effect the deliquescent, roasted bone marrow with syrupy, sweet onion jam and Dijon mustard spread on charry, bar-marked toast at The Glenelg Public House in Mermaid Beach has. Achingly simple but expertly executed, it’s the type of fare that has become a signature of this Gold Coast steakhouse — easy and approachable with an emphasis on quality produce treated with care, understanding and respect.

Set up like an old-school saloon of sorts — with its leather chesterfield, walnut-hued bentwood chairs tucked into timber tables, large wooden beams and concrete floors — it’s a decidedly masculine space but equally cosy, comforting and family friendly.

Reinforcing the warm vibe is the staff, who are both charming and knowledgeable, helping and encouraging diners through the generous menu, which runs from snacks such as oozy, grilled raclette served in the pan alongside slivers of pear, sweet fig relish and diced hazelnuts to the star of the show, steak. Patrons will find a beefy offering ranging from a 200g, MB3+, grain-fed oyster nose to a share-style 1kg, grain-fed, angus T-bone.

A solid array of local and international beers, creative cocktails and succinct but smart wine list designed to complement the food ensures The Glenelg Public House is the full package.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Roasted bone marrow, raclette, lemon tart