The Glenelg Public House’s menu – anchored in steak and veg – rarely changes, but its trend-resistant signatures remain as satisfying as the day it debuted. In contrast to the current profusion of pretty pastel fit-outs, it’s a masculine, solid space, with concrete floors, hefty timber sleeper beams and comfortable Chesterfields.

Dim lights mean you may need to whip out a mobile phone light to read the leather-wrapped compilation of comfort food. Warm, expert staff are ready with suggestions, including from the measured wine list.

Start with grilled, molten-centred raclette, intended to be layered on toast with pear, fig relish and hazelnut, or roast bone marrow with sweet onion jam. Fat wagyu meatballs in a tomato sauce strung with buffalo mozzarella will warm you to your toes. Steak is the star of the show and there’s little chance of walking away hungry after sharing a 1kg T-bone with sides (don’t underestimate the roast carrots dressed in yoghurt and dukkah).

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