Since opening at Burleigh Heads in 2011, Justin Lane has become a hit with locals and tourists for its classic pizzas and laid-back vibe.

But always one to move with the times and a lover of reinvention, owner Adam Haralampou late last year set about redeveloping the hotspot, merging it with his neighbouring Cavalier Bar & Italian to create the supersized Justin Lane Establishment.

The renovation included adding dedicated takeaway spaces, a pasta bar and a cool new rooftop area.

The latter is a breezy, open, Hamptons-style space with white umbrellas, vine-wrapped timber beams, ocean glimpses and a mix of high tables and booth seating. It was abuzz with 20-40-somethings during our midweek visit, all enjoying a few drinks. By 6.30pm, it was standing room only.

Having arrived at opening time, we managed to get a seat at one of the narrow bar tables – a table that later proved too narrow for our array of dishes, with one crashing to the ground mid-feast. It was set for four people, but we struggled with just the two of us.

There is a clipped menu of tapas Monday to Thursday, with an extended offering for weekends expanding into pizzas, pastas, salads and desserts, including pork and fennel meatball pizza, and squid-ink linguine with clams and white wine sauce.

Off the reduced menu we began with the pickled beetroot with Meredith Dairy goats cheese and salsa di noci (walnut sauce, $15). It was a classic flavour combination that had been well executed with the shavings of earthy, just-tart beetroot working as little doonas to wrap up the cheese and nut mixture.

Charry bites of octopus tendrils ($17, pictured) were a little chewy, but a flavourful match nonetheless to a white bean dip with fresh continental parsley.

Mooloolaba king prawns ($23) arrived cut in half with their tender, sweet meat enhanced by a dressing of chilli and lemon, while a side of aioli provided richness.

Finally came three fresh grilled sardines ($18) soaking in olive oil and lemon with a stripe of zesty salsa verde to add vibrancy.

The dishes were all simple, fresh and well cooked, sticking to classic roots rather than pushing any boundaries. It was easy yet tasty food. Behind the bar are six cold taps that included a mix of ciders and beers during our visit. There’s also a very compact wine list, plus several predominantly fruit-based cocktails.

You order meals at the bar, which are then delivered to your table. Service was a bit of a mixed bag, with one bartender friendly, helpful and knowledgeable, while another, who was struggling to work out how to use the till, bordered on rude with his nonchalant approach.

Fix that and widen the tables and the space becomes worthy of plenty of return visits for casual drinks or a solid Sunday session.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au