The new look is dark, moody and masculine, with the old cowhide detailing, simple seating and white ceiling replaced with heavy, large, leather armchairs, sculptural hanging pendants, and black and grey tones. It’s a handsome and comfortable space reflective of its ode to beef.

The menu is broad and diverse, offering cold and hot entrees, such as oysters four ways, beef carpaccio, and scallops with glazed pork, plus pastas and seafood dishes, single-serve and sharing-style mains, such as local duck breast and pulled lamb shoulder, and their signature array of steaks.

It’s a tempting read, but as the dishes arrived, they sadly failed to wow.

The charcuterie platter ($21 per person, pictured), while a generous serve for one, with top-quality Italian prosciutto di san daniele, South Australian salame inferno, and Victorian Blackmore wagyu bresaola, was let down by lacklustre accompaniments that were different to those listed on the menu. The promised pickle and confit onions had been replaced with a mini pot of olives and a quince paste.

Our other entree of Shanghai-style calamari ($22) was oily, with the chewy pieces of squid battered and deep-fried and sitting on a ginger-spiked, sticky caramel that was far too sweet. A main of Diamond clams ($24) was better, with a large pot filled with sweet clams in a light duck broth and an eggy mess described on the menu as a shrimp omelet.

The biggest disappointment came with the steak. We chose the Lachlan River Farming hereford angus cross pasture-fed 300g scotch fillet from Cowra in NSW ($48).

For a menu built around beef – and with high prices to match – diners expect their steak to be top-notch, and this was, sadly, no better than average.

Thankfully, seriously crunchy wagyu fat-fried potatoes and broccolini and snow peas with poached garlic, chilli and butter ($9 each) were a hit.

Not to be faulted was the drinks list, which featured some seriously good local and international wines, plus an array of tempting signature cocktails.

With smooth and professional service throughout, the rest of the package ticked all the boxes – it was just the food that needed a shake-up.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au