Chinese restaurants come and go but none have come close to threatening the crown of Golden Century — the inner-city Chinese/Cantonese palace favoured by chefs, politicians and celebrities as the ultimate late-night dining venue.

Come for the rubbernecking. Stay for the pipis in XO sauce, pork in preserved egg congee and, if you really feel like splashing the cash around, a live crayfish from the tank, served two ways; sashimi style and deep-fried with ginger and shallot.

Linda Wong has run the double-level, Sussex Street emporium for the past 26 years with husband Tim, and began as the restaurant’s first original chef in 1990. The kitchen is now staffed with about 40 chefs daily.

Must eat: Dry-fried salt and pepper snow crab