Bathed in natural light from double story windows by day, and alive with the colourful glow from the cityscape across the river at night, the sophisticated Goma delivers thoughtfulness and quirky innovation in every dish.

Take, perhaps, glistening saku tuna with a reduction featuring the Japanese koshu grape, finger limes, edamame beans and seasoning atop whipped tofu. It’s as elegant as any painting in the gallery and brings pure joy.

Dishes like this are best discovered during the restaurant’s keenly priced degustation menu, titled “The Exhibition” — with another of the seven courses possibly Cone Bay barramundi cooked “tandoori” style with artichokes, yoghurt and curried tomatoes. Or perhaps AACo steak matched with burnt broccoli, fermented chilli, and a black bean espuma enriched with beef fat.

The wine list is a carefully curated ode to Australia, with strong connections to Queensland producers; while there’s also more than a handful of local beers.

With detail-orientated service, Goma Restaurant holds as much appeal as even its finest exhibits.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): steak, saku tuna, barramundi