Yes, this restaurant is named in honour of Batman himself — the huge mural on the wall is a dead giveaway. But the vibe is less batcave, more hyper-masculine jazz bar from a mafia movie. It would be dingy if not for two walls of windows giving you a sparkling canal view.

The caped crusader must be a steak man, because this is the place to come on the Gold Coast if you want perfectly selected, perfectly cooked beef.

Starters like charred octopus (twice-cooked for 14 hours until impossibly tender) are great, but it’s really all about the mains.

Attentive, warm staff talk you through every steak option possible — from scotch fillet to rump cap to a wagyu hanging tender. But don’t look past the black angus dry aged rib on the bone — the char is spot on and the peppercorn sauce is piquant and peppery.

They don’t just grill beef well here — the crispy skin salmon with smoky bacon, kipfler potatoes and a vibrant and buttery shellfish carrot emulsion is a dish you’d eat on repeat.

Gotham reminds you that a simple steak can bring as much pleasure as the most inventive cooking. It also proves that it is possible to make Batman even cooler than before.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): black angus dry aged rib on the bone 400g